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Wood-burning stove glass will always get dirty. Though using your airwash system properly can help you to minimise the amount of soot and dirt that settles on the glass, with wood or coal being burned at high temperature in such close proximity, it is inevitable that some clouding will still happen. Given that darkening of the glass is unavoidable you will need a way to clean it that will restore it to its sparkling former glory. Cleaning wood-burning stove glass is one of those things that has created a series of unusual methods and tips that different people swear by. Once you find one that works for you, you are likely to stick with it. Here are some ideas for removing dirt from your stove glass: Damp cloth The first port of call is a damp cloth. As with all the other cleaning methods discussed in this article, it should only be undertaken when the appliance is cool. Simply wipe the damp cloth on the inside of the glass in circular motions. In some cases, this will be sufficient to remove the dirt. Newspaper dipped in ashes At first, ashes might seem like a bothersome byproduct of your woodburner. In fact, they can be very useful. Once the ashes are cold, dip a piece of newspaper into them, then apply it to the glass in a circular movement. Devotees claim this is an effective way to remove soot. Wipe clean with a damp cloth. Vinegar Vinegar is a useful cleaning product around the home, and many people use it to clean their stove glass. Again, you just need to take a piece of newspaper, dip it into the vinegar, then apply to the glass using a circular motion. Wipe clean with a damp cloth. Bicarbonate of Soda Probably our least favoured option on the list, but worth a try if the others aren’t working for your stove, is bicarbonate of soda or baking soda. Simply add a small amount of water to it to create a paste, then apply to the glass. Wipe clean with a damp cloth. Stove glass cleaner An easy way to remove soot from your stove glass is to use a specialist stove glass cleaner. It is hard to beat this when it comes to convenience. The product comes in a spray bottle. You just need to squirt it onto the glass using the instructions given by the manufacturer, which usually recommend a clean with a damp cloth beforehand.

Wood-burning stove glass will always get dirty. Though using your airwash system properly can help you to minimise the amount of soot and dirt that settles on the glass, with wood or coal being burned at high temperature in such close proximity, it is inevitable that some clouding will still happen. Given that darkening of […]

Wood-burning stove glass will always get dirty. Though using your airwash system properly can help you to minimise the amount of soot and dirt that settles on the glass, with wood or coal being burned at high temperature in such close proximity, it is inevitable that some clouding will still happen. Given that darkening of the glass is unavoidable you will need a way to clean it that will restore it to its sparkling former glory. Cleaning wood-burning stove glass is one of those things that has created a series of unusual methods and tips that different people swear by. Once you find one that works for you, you are likely to stick with it. Here are some ideas for removing dirt from your stove glass: Damp cloth The first port of call is a damp cloth. As with all the other cleaning methods discussed in this article, it should only be undertaken when the appliance is cool. Simply wipe the damp cloth on the inside of the glass in circular motions. In some cases, this will be sufficient to remove the dirt. Newspaper dipped in ashes At first, ashes might seem like a bothersome byproduct of your woodburner. In fact, they can be very useful. Once the ashes are cold, dip a piece of newspaper into them, then apply it to the glass in a circular movement. Devotees claim this is an effective way to remove soot. Wipe clean with a damp cloth. Vinegar Vinegar is a useful cleaning product around the home, and many people use it to clean their stove glass. Again, you just need to take a piece of newspaper, dip it into the vinegar, then apply to the glass using a circular motion. Wipe clean with a damp cloth. Bicarbonate of Soda Probably our least favoured option on the list, but worth a try if the others aren’t working for your stove, is bicarbonate of soda or baking soda. Simply add a small amount of water to it to create a paste, then apply to the glass. Wipe clean with a damp cloth. Stove glass cleaner An easy way to remove soot from your stove glass is to use a specialist stove glass cleaner. It is hard to beat this when it comes to convenience. The product comes in a spray bottle. You just need to squirt it onto the glass using the instructions given by the manufacturer, which usually recommend a clean with a damp cloth beforehand. Read More »

An easy trick to stop corrosion Here goes… Open the door. That’s it. Simple as that. Leaving your stove’s door ajar when it is out of use during the summer months encourages air flow and ventilation through the stove system and flue. This flow of air helps to prevent your stove and its parts from corroding. A very simple measure to take, but one that is well worth doing.

An easy trick to stop corrosion Here goes… Open the door. That’s it. Simple as that. Leaving your stove’s door ajar when it is out of use during the summer months encourages air flow and ventilation through the stove system and flue. This flow of air helps to prevent your stove and its parts from

An easy trick to stop corrosion Here goes… Open the door. That’s it. Simple as that. Leaving your stove’s door ajar when it is out of use during the summer months encourages air flow and ventilation through the stove system and flue. This flow of air helps to prevent your stove and its parts from corroding. A very simple measure to take, but one that is well worth doing. Read More »

A lovely installation of a Portway Arundel by Portway Stoves , installed by our HETAS registered engineer, with a flexible flue liner, slate hearth & oak beam in #burtonupontrent 🔥

A lovely installation of a Portway Arundel by Portway Stoves , installed by our HETAS registered engineer, with a flexible flue liner, slate hearth & oak beam in #burtonupontrent 🔥 Latest update from Stove Specialists Ltd via Stove Specialists Ltd – stove installation Stove Specialists Ltd Unit 1C, Chetwynd Lodge Chester Road Newport, Telford TF10

A lovely installation of a Portway Arundel by Portway Stoves , installed by our HETAS registered engineer, with a flexible flue liner, slate hearth & oak beam in #burtonupontrent 🔥 Read More »

Is wood a sustainable source? The Forestry Commission estimates that there is enough home grown wood to meet demand & a new SIA Ecodesign Ready stoves require fewer logs to produce the same heat of an open fire or 10 year old stove For woodburning stoves the quality & type of wood burnt greatly affects the performance, the lower the moisture content of the wood, the higher the heat output & the lower the emissions & flue deposits produced We recommend dense woods like oak as your logs, they burn hotter & longer than lighter woods.

Is wood a sustainable source? The Forestry Commission estimates that there is enough home grown wood to meet demand & a new SIA Ecodesign Ready stoves require fewer logs to produce the same heat of an open fire or 10 year old stove For woodburning stoves the quality & type of wood burnt greatly affects

Is wood a sustainable source? The Forestry Commission estimates that there is enough home grown wood to meet demand & a new SIA Ecodesign Ready stoves require fewer logs to produce the same heat of an open fire or 10 year old stove For woodburning stoves the quality & type of wood burnt greatly affects the performance, the lower the moisture content of the wood, the higher the heat output & the lower the emissions & flue deposits produced We recommend dense woods like oak as your logs, they burn hotter & longer than lighter woods. Read More »

When choosing wood for a fire, it’s important that you know what type you are burning & what is best for a fire. The main reason for the differences are wood density & moisture retention. Wood that is of a high density & high moisture retention being the worst example of firewood, providing little fuel for a fire to burn & burning with a very low intensity. We have ranked the wood types you may use. The ranking going from Very Good to Very Poor. Bear in mind that these ranking assume the wood is in an optimal condition for burning: ie cut into small, dry, pieces. Alder – Poor – The fire it produces is very low heat and does not last long. Not good for any kind of fire. Apple – Good – Produces small but long lasting flame that gives off very little spitting or smoke. Ash – Very Good – Considered the best wood for burning (as the name would suggest). It produces a long lasting flame with a high heat output, it can even be burnt relatively effectively without being dried. Beech – Very Good – Burns very much like Ash, but does not burn well when not dried. Birch – Fair – Produces good heat but bruns very quickly. The unseasoned wood can also cause sap deposits to build up in a stove. Blackthorn – Good – Slow burning with moderate heat output. Very Good for smaller indoor fires. Cedar – Good – Produces good slow burning heat, but tends to spit and leaves sap deposits with prolonged use. Cherry – Good – Very good while in season, with a long lasting hot flame, but is a terrible burning wood when not in season due to high smoke and sap output. Chestnut – Poor – Produces a very small flame with a low heat output. Douglas Fir– Poor – Produces a very small flame with a low heat output, as well as leaving sap deposits in stoves with prolonged use. Elder – Poor – Produces a very small flame with a low heat output. Elm – Fair – Elm is a good burner when dry, the problem is drying the wood as it has a very high moisture retention, taking 2 years to get into a state where the wood is suitable for burning. Eucalyptus – Poor – While it produces a lot of heat, it burns quickly and produces a lot of sap. Using Eucalyptus wood comes with a high risk of a chimney fire, and its short life span makes it unsuitable for a fire pit. Hawthorn – Very Good – The traditional firewood. Very much like Beech Hazel – Good – Good heat but is a moderately fast burner. Holly – Poor – Burns quickly and produces very little heat, but will burn in dry or wet condition, making it easy to start a fire with. Hornbeam – Good – A lot like Birch, it produces good heat, although lasts longer than Birch making it an overall better burning wood. Horse Chestnut – Fair – Produces a good fire heat and lifespan, but spits and sparks a lot, this is less of a problem in a stove but is a safety hazard that must be kept in account. Laburnum – Very Poor – Produces a lot of thick smoke for a very small fire. Do not use. Larch – Fair – Reasonable in both heat and fire life span, but produces a lot of sap if unseasoned. Laurel – Fair – Just like Larch, is a reasonable burning wood but must be seasoned first. Lilac – Good – The smaller branches of the tree make for excellent kindling while the wood itself is a good burner. Lime – Poor – Very little heat output and burns quickly. Maple – Good – Produces a lasting and hot flame. Oak – Good – Oak requires time to season, due to its high density, but is a good burner once seasoned. Pear – Good – Just like Oak, burns well but must be seasoned well. Pine – Fair – A lot like the Eucalyptus for heat output and hazard of a chimney fire, but its flame does last longer, making it a good burner if the correct precautions are taken. Also good for firepits. Plum – Good – Good Heat output and burns fairly slowly. Poplar – Very Poor – Just like Laburnum, poor burner that produces a lot of smoke. Rowan – Very Good – Burns very slowly and produces good heat. An excellent wood type for any fire. Rhododendron – Good – The Wood is very good if it is seasoned, but is otherwise mediocre. Robinia – Fair – A wood that burns slowly and produces good heat, but spits a lot, just like Horse Chestnut. Spruce – Poor – Poor heat and burns quickly. Sycamore – Fair – Good heat output, but burns moderately quickly and must be seasoned first. Sweet Chestnut – Poor – It’s fair for heat and life span, but spits a lot and produces a lot of smoke. Thorn – Very Good – One of the best woods for burning. A long lasting and hot flame with minimal smoke or spitting. Walnut – Fair – Is overall a fair wood for burning. Not especially good or bad for anything. Willow – Poor – Does not burn well even when seasoned. Only thing saving it from being very poor being that it has no hazards attached to it. Yew – Very Good – Very high heat output that lasts a very long time.

When choosing wood for a fire, it’s important that you know what type you are burning & what is best for a fire. The main reason for the differences are wood density & moisture retention. Wood that is of a high density & high moisture retention being the worst example of firewood, providing little fuel

When choosing wood for a fire, it’s important that you know what type you are burning & what is best for a fire. The main reason for the differences are wood density & moisture retention. Wood that is of a high density & high moisture retention being the worst example of firewood, providing little fuel for a fire to burn & burning with a very low intensity. We have ranked the wood types you may use. The ranking going from Very Good to Very Poor. Bear in mind that these ranking assume the wood is in an optimal condition for burning: ie cut into small, dry, pieces. Alder – Poor – The fire it produces is very low heat and does not last long. Not good for any kind of fire. Apple – Good – Produces small but long lasting flame that gives off very little spitting or smoke. Ash – Very Good – Considered the best wood for burning (as the name would suggest). It produces a long lasting flame with a high heat output, it can even be burnt relatively effectively without being dried. Beech – Very Good – Burns very much like Ash, but does not burn well when not dried. Birch – Fair – Produces good heat but bruns very quickly. The unseasoned wood can also cause sap deposits to build up in a stove. Blackthorn – Good – Slow burning with moderate heat output. Very Good for smaller indoor fires. Cedar – Good – Produces good slow burning heat, but tends to spit and leaves sap deposits with prolonged use. Cherry – Good – Very good while in season, with a long lasting hot flame, but is a terrible burning wood when not in season due to high smoke and sap output. Chestnut – Poor – Produces a very small flame with a low heat output. Douglas Fir– Poor – Produces a very small flame with a low heat output, as well as leaving sap deposits in stoves with prolonged use. Elder – Poor – Produces a very small flame with a low heat output. Elm – Fair – Elm is a good burner when dry, the problem is drying the wood as it has a very high moisture retention, taking 2 years to get into a state where the wood is suitable for burning. Eucalyptus – Poor – While it produces a lot of heat, it burns quickly and produces a lot of sap. Using Eucalyptus wood comes with a high risk of a chimney fire, and its short life span makes it unsuitable for a fire pit. Hawthorn – Very Good – The traditional firewood. Very much like Beech Hazel – Good – Good heat but is a moderately fast burner. Holly – Poor – Burns quickly and produces very little heat, but will burn in dry or wet condition, making it easy to start a fire with. Hornbeam – Good – A lot like Birch, it produces good heat, although lasts longer than Birch making it an overall better burning wood. Horse Chestnut – Fair – Produces a good fire heat and lifespan, but spits and sparks a lot, this is less of a problem in a stove but is a safety hazard that must be kept in account. Laburnum – Very Poor – Produces a lot of thick smoke for a very small fire. Do not use. Larch – Fair – Reasonable in both heat and fire life span, but produces a lot of sap if unseasoned. Laurel – Fair – Just like Larch, is a reasonable burning wood but must be seasoned first. Lilac – Good – The smaller branches of the tree make for excellent kindling while the wood itself is a good burner. Lime – Poor – Very little heat output and burns quickly. Maple – Good – Produces a lasting and hot flame. Oak – Good – Oak requires time to season, due to its high density, but is a good burner once seasoned. Pear – Good – Just like Oak, burns well but must be seasoned well. Pine – Fair – A lot like the Eucalyptus for heat output and hazard of a chimney fire, but its flame does last longer, making it a good burner if the correct precautions are taken. Also good for firepits. Plum – Good – Good Heat output and burns fairly slowly. Poplar – Very Poor – Just like Laburnum, poor burner that produces a lot of smoke. Rowan – Very Good – Burns very slowly and produces good heat. An excellent wood type for any fire. Rhododendron – Good – The Wood is very good if it is seasoned, but is otherwise mediocre. Robinia – Fair – A wood that burns slowly and produces good heat, but spits a lot, just like Horse Chestnut. Spruce – Poor – Poor heat and burns quickly. Sycamore – Fair – Good heat output, but burns moderately quickly and must be seasoned first. Sweet Chestnut – Poor – It’s fair for heat and life span, but spits a lot and produces a lot of smoke. Thorn – Very Good – One of the best woods for burning. A long lasting and hot flame with minimal smoke or spitting. Walnut – Fair – Is overall a fair wood for burning. Not especially good or bad for anything. Willow – Poor – Does not burn well even when seasoned. Only thing saving it from being very poor being that it has no hazards attached to it. Yew – Very Good – Very high heat output that lasts a very long time. Read More »

🔥Test It Tuesday 🔥 Carbon monoxide is a poisonous, odourless, tasteless, invisible gas. In the home it is formed from incomplete combustion from any flame-producing appliance. … Current legislation states that if you have installed a wood burning or multifuel stove a carbon monoxide alarm is required. In order to ensure that your home has maximum protection, it’s important to have a CO detector on every floor. Five feet from the ground. Carbon monoxide detectors can get the best reading of your home’s air when they are placed five feet from the ground. Near every sleeping area. We have alarm/detectors in stock Every stove ordered today will receive a free alarm when quoting “Test It Tuesday” For more information 💻 info@stovespecialists.co.uk 📞 08008321850 Message us on our Facebook page 🔥

🔥Test It Tuesday 🔥 Carbon monoxide is a poisonous, odourless, tasteless, invisible gas. In the home it is formed from incomplete combustion from any flame-producing appliance. … Current legislation states that if you have installed a wood burning or multifuel stove a carbon monoxide alarm is required. In order to ensure that your home has

🔥Test It Tuesday 🔥 Carbon monoxide is a poisonous, odourless, tasteless, invisible gas. In the home it is formed from incomplete combustion from any flame-producing appliance. … Current legislation states that if you have installed a wood burning or multifuel stove a carbon monoxide alarm is required. In order to ensure that your home has maximum protection, it’s important to have a CO detector on every floor. Five feet from the ground. Carbon monoxide detectors can get the best reading of your home’s air when they are placed five feet from the ground. Near every sleeping area. We have alarm/detectors in stock Every stove ordered today will receive a free alarm when quoting “Test It Tuesday” For more information 💻 info@stovespecialists.co.uk 📞 08008321850 Message us on our Facebook page 🔥 Read More »

Latest update from Stove Specialists Ltd via Stove Specialists Ltd – stove installation Stove Specialists Ltd Unit 1C, Chetwynd Lodge Chester Road Newport, Telford TF10 8AB +44-1902-519089

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