stove specialists uk hetas engineer

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July 25, 2022

A lovely installation of a Portway Arundel by Portway Stoves installed by our HETAS engineer with a flexible flue, glassrock chamber, slate hearth & finished with an oak beam in #didcot #oxfordshire #oxford 🔥

Stove Specialists Ltd

A lovely installation of a Portway Arundel by Portway Stoves installed by our HETAS engineer with a flexible flue, glassrock chamber, slate hearth & finished with an oak beam in #didcot #oxfordshire #oxford 🔥 Latest update from Stove Specialists Ltd via Stove Specialists Ltd – stove installation Stove Specialists Ltd Unit 1C, Chetwynd Lodge Chester […]

A lovely installation of a Portway Arundel by Portway Stoves installed by our HETAS engineer with a flexible flue, glassrock chamber, slate hearth & finished with an oak beam in #didcot #oxfordshire #oxford 🔥 Read More »

🔥Which wood should I choose 🔥 Wood has been the natural choice of fuel for domestic fires since it was first used many millennia ago. Nowadays, being able to burn wood for heat in your stove gives you more freedom and options for fuel. There are many different wood types to choose from, and they all have their own individual burning qualities. HARDWOOD OR SOFTWOOD? Do you know the difference between Hardwoods are any broad-leafed, deciduous trees, such as Beech and Elm, while softwoods are conifers including Cedar and Fir. When it comes to burning wood in stoves, hardwood is better than softwood as it burns slower. The density of softwood is also around half that of hardwood, which results in it burning twice as fast – meaning you’ll need twice as much! DRY WOOD IS ALWAYS THE BEST WOOD No matter what type of wood you choose for your wood burning stove, it is important that the wood is dried before you burn. Wood that hasn’t been dried wastes much of the energy created while burning in removing water from the log and producing steam. Fresh wood contains a high amount of water of between 65-90%, depending on the species. We recommend that wood is seasoned for AT LEAST a year, or preferably two before burning. You can dry out your own wood in a wood store or, if you don’t have the facilities, ensure you buy seasoned wood from your supplier. The best kiln dried wood has a moisture content of less than 20%.

Stove Specialists Ltd

🔥Which wood should I choose 🔥 Wood has been the natural choice of fuel for domestic fires since it was first used many millennia ago. Nowadays, being able to burn wood for heat in your stove gives you more freedom and options for fuel. There are many different wood types to choose from, and they

🔥Which wood should I choose 🔥 Wood has been the natural choice of fuel for domestic fires since it was first used many millennia ago. Nowadays, being able to burn wood for heat in your stove gives you more freedom and options for fuel. There are many different wood types to choose from, and they all have their own individual burning qualities. HARDWOOD OR SOFTWOOD? Do you know the difference between Hardwoods are any broad-leafed, deciduous trees, such as Beech and Elm, while softwoods are conifers including Cedar and Fir. When it comes to burning wood in stoves, hardwood is better than softwood as it burns slower. The density of softwood is also around half that of hardwood, which results in it burning twice as fast – meaning you’ll need twice as much! DRY WOOD IS ALWAYS THE BEST WOOD No matter what type of wood you choose for your wood burning stove, it is important that the wood is dried before you burn. Wood that hasn’t been dried wastes much of the energy created while burning in removing water from the log and producing steam. Fresh wood contains a high amount of water of between 65-90%, depending on the species. We recommend that wood is seasoned for AT LEAST a year, or preferably two before burning. You can dry out your own wood in a wood store or, if you don’t have the facilities, ensure you buy seasoned wood from your supplier. The best kiln dried wood has a moisture content of less than 20%. Read More »

Struggling to get to grips with all the wood-burning stove jargon. Here’s your one-stop guide to some of the main terminology you’ll come across when buying a wood-burning stove. 🔥 Airwash A system that forces a flow of air from a vent at the top of your stove down over the glass in the door to prevent tar and soot being deposited on the glass. 🔥 Ash pan The removable or fitted pan that sits below the stove to collect all the ashes. 🔥 Baffle A metal plate sitting above the stove. It partially blocks the exit for the hot flue gases created by your fuel. This helps to keep the gases in the stove for longer to make sure they have fully burnt, and also keeps to heat in the stove for longer to give more opportunity for your room to heat. 🔥 Cleanburn A system used in modern stoves in which an additional air supply is introduced to the stove. This encourages burning higher up the stove, with the intention of stopping flammable gases disappearing up the flue without being burnt. 🔥 Firebox The main inside part of your stove where all the burning takes place. 🔥 Firebricks An insulating material used inside the stove to protect it from the fierce heat of the fire. 🔥Flue The pipe that takes the gases away from your stove. 🔥Grate The bed that your fuel sits on when it is burning. 🔥Primary air supply The main source of air to provide combustion inside the stove. In multi-fuel stoves this is usually at the bottom of the stove. 🔥Register plate A plate used to seal the bottom of the chimney in an open fireplace, which will have a hole through which the flue pipe passes (pictured above). 🔥Secondary air supply An additional air supply, often added to the stove to improve combustion (see Cleanburn) Can’t find the word you’re looking for? Leave a comment below and we’ll try to help. Featured below are just a few pictures of our installations 🔥

Stove Specialists Ltd

Struggling to get to grips with all the wood-burning stove jargon. Here’s your one-stop guide to some of the main terminology you’ll come across when buying a wood-burning stove. 🔥 Airwash A system that forces a flow of air from a vent at the top of your stove down over the glass in the door

Struggling to get to grips with all the wood-burning stove jargon. Here’s your one-stop guide to some of the main terminology you’ll come across when buying a wood-burning stove. 🔥 Airwash A system that forces a flow of air from a vent at the top of your stove down over the glass in the door to prevent tar and soot being deposited on the glass. 🔥 Ash pan The removable or fitted pan that sits below the stove to collect all the ashes. 🔥 Baffle A metal plate sitting above the stove. It partially blocks the exit for the hot flue gases created by your fuel. This helps to keep the gases in the stove for longer to make sure they have fully burnt, and also keeps to heat in the stove for longer to give more opportunity for your room to heat. 🔥 Cleanburn A system used in modern stoves in which an additional air supply is introduced to the stove. This encourages burning higher up the stove, with the intention of stopping flammable gases disappearing up the flue without being burnt. 🔥 Firebox The main inside part of your stove where all the burning takes place. 🔥 Firebricks An insulating material used inside the stove to protect it from the fierce heat of the fire. 🔥Flue The pipe that takes the gases away from your stove. 🔥Grate The bed that your fuel sits on when it is burning. 🔥Primary air supply The main source of air to provide combustion inside the stove. In multi-fuel stoves this is usually at the bottom of the stove. 🔥Register plate A plate used to seal the bottom of the chimney in an open fireplace, which will have a hole through which the flue pipe passes (pictured above). 🔥Secondary air supply An additional air supply, often added to the stove to improve combustion (see Cleanburn) Can’t find the word you’re looking for? Leave a comment below and we’ll try to help. Featured below are just a few pictures of our installations 🔥 Read More »

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stove specialists ltd hetas engineer

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